Anyone who has shopped the aisles for skincare products has likely been exposed to a long list of acids commonly found in beauty products. But what does each acid do to our skin, what are they are made of and, most importantly, what are the side effects and overall benefits?
What are Skincare Acids For?
Skincare acids can fight acne, redness, dark spots and wrinkles. “Face acids are exfoliants,” according to Cleveland Clinic. “They work to turn over layers of dead skin cells quicker than would happen on their own. That means facial acids can help make your skin smoother and brighter.”
Skincare acids can be broken down in two categories: alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs).
AHAs
AHAs are “water-soluble acids derived from sugars found in fruits and milk. They are primarily used for exfoliation, skin texture improvement, and the treatment of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation,” according to Clinikally.com, a skin and hair consulting service.
POPULAR AHAS
Ascorbic acid
Essentially vitamin C, this acid is “an antioxidant (meaning it protects skin from environmental assaults like pollution), inhibits pigment production and stimulates collagen,” according to Everyday Health, a health and wellness news resource. In fact, a study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology reported that participants who used ascorbic acid “showed a significant skin texture improvement and skin tone.”
Lactic acid
This acid is gentler and is recommended for people with sensitive skin. According to Cleveland Clinic, “Lactic acid acts as both an exfoliant and a moisturizer. So, you’ll often find lactic acid in body washes in addition to products meant for your face.”
Glycolic acid
This is an anti-aging acid which “exfoliates the skin’s surface, removes dead skin cells and promotes cell turnover,” according to Clinikally.com. “It can improve skin texture, refine pores, and diminish the visibility of acne scars.”
BHAs
BHAs are “oil-soluble acids [that] penetrate deeper into your pores [and also] help remove dead skin,” according to Cleveland Clinic. What makes them different is they can also help dissipate oil from the skin.
POPULAR BHAS
Salicylic acid
This is the most common BHA. You may have seen this as one of the most common ingredients of anti-acne products because it “exfoliates the outer layer of skin [and] can also penetrate deeper into the pores, where it helps get rid of debris and buildup,” according to Everyday Health. “This helps unclog pores to prevent breakouts.”
Other Types of Acids
Hyaluronic acid
Although technically not an acid, this is likely one of the most popular anti-aging skincare ingredients in recent years and is seen in everything from skin products to shampoos. A fruit molecule, hyaluronic acid is naturally occurring in our bodies and decreases as we age, which “can make your skin drier and less elastic over the years, leading to the development of wrinkles, fine lines and more,” according to Cleveland Clinic. Everyday Health explained that “when applied, the ingredient plumps up the outer layer of skin cells to soften lines and enhance a glow.”
Azelaic acid
Both antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, this acid “regulates sebum production, inhibits the growth of acne-causing bacteria and improves skin tone,” according to Clinikally.com.
Retinoic acid
Also known as retinol, this product helps to “reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen [and can fade] age spots and [soften] rough patches of skin,” as noted by Harvard Health.
Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Azelaic Acid Booster Cream
CeraVe Fragrance Free Retinol Serum
While acids can definitely up your skincare routine, it’s important to understand how to begin using them. If you’ve never used skin acids before, Cleveland Clinic recommends using a gentle cleanser first and begin applying the acids in the evening. Once you start using acids during the day, it’s extremely important to always use sunscreen as acids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. In addition, use one acid at a time to understand the effects each product has on your skin.
How to Use Skincare Acids
Clinikally.com recommends the following steps when beginning to use skincare acids:
1. Start with a low concentration
“Lower concentrations are kinder and give your skin more time to adjust to the acid.”
2. Use only once a week
“This frequency lets you see how your skin reacts without overwhelming it.”
3. Assess skin tolerance
“After a few weeks of using the acid once a week, see how your skin reacts. If you have few or no side effects, you can consider increasing the frequency.”
4. Look out for skin reactions
“Take note of how your skin appears and feels after each application. If your skin becomes irritated or sensitive, reduce the frequency or return to using the acid once a week until it heals. Everyone’s skin is unique, so pay attention to what your skin requires.”
5. Give your skin a break
“Even if your skin tolerates the use of an acid on a daily basis, it is beneficial to give your skin a break from time to time. You can skip acid application one or two days per week and focus on gentle cleansing and moisturizing to allow your skin to restore its natural balance.”
It’s important to consult your dermatologist or aesthetician to figure out which combination of skincare products would be the best fit for you.
Always ask your doctor, dermatologist or aesthetician for the best recommendations before using any acids on your skin.
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